So Rwanda

About a mile into the trail, skirting farm fields, there were several people dumping dirt from containers they carried on their heads into a large squared in foundation. One after another after another dumped their dirt and walked really far to get another load to dump into this huge space. They were going to build a pumphouse there. I have no idea why they had to get the dirt from so far away and carry it on their heads that great distance. There was dirt everywhere. But again, slow, steady, persistent, consistent.

Many people working the fields. Plowing by hand with big heavy hoes. Little children working with muddy clothes, mothers with babies wrapped to their backs, rainy mist, fog, cool dampness, rainforest at the edges of the fields, beehives, eucalyptus trees, rich black tilled earth, wet black faces. Soldiers accompanied us – trailed us actually. They carried AK47’s. Supposedly they were there to scare the gorillas by shooting into the air if one got violent. Thinking back on it (and considering conversations I’ve had since returning) I’m pretty sure they were there to protect us from guerillas not gorillas. That part was weird. The soldiers, or guards, never looked us in the eye or initiated any contact. I know they were just doing their job. Still, AK 47’s for protection? It was a reminder of just how far we were from home. How far I am from you.

After reaching the gate to the park we had only about another mile before encountering the gorillas. We could hear them (and smell them?) before actually seeing them. We made plenty of noise to alert them to our presence and Anoclet made some pretty convincing gorilla sounds to announce us. At first I saw a young one in a tree and thought that was about the level that our contact would be. It got so much more intimate. Eventually a small group of mother, father, juvenile son, five month old baby son and juvenile friend all pretty much played around within seven meters of us.

The baby gorilla at Virunga

Anoclet was beside himself with joy. He hadn’t had a very clear view of the baby himself and he was sincerely awed at the sight. He spends around an hour a day hanging around with these guys. He said that the parents “presented” the baby to us. The little one, not a great walker yet, frolicked and nursed and ate and rolled around constantly. It seemed to be showing off. It would barely stay still long enough for me to take pictures is the low light. The juveniles wrestled and thumped their chests; shoved, kicked and farted to our great pleasure, awe and delight. The older ones were very laid back. I was never scared. Photographs and videotape definitely won’t do it – neither will my feeble words. The beauty and power and ease were breathtaking. But I guess the theme of so much of this trip is the Godness in these moments. It was there, Heidi.